[Worklog] Watercooled TJ07.

Hi guys, I am currently in the process of setting up my first ever custom watercooled PC, and I thought it would be a good idea to make a worklog to show you guys how I am getting on with it.

I am just using the hardware from my current rig, which consists of:

Intel core i7 920 D0

Gigabyte EX58 UD5

6GB Corsair Dominator 1600MHz

Asus GTX280

Be Quiet! Dark Power Pro 850w

2 x 36GB Raptors in RAID0 for my OS

320GB Samsung HDD for storage

For my loop I will be using an Aqua Computer 360 and XSPC 240 rads, Laing DDC 10w pump with XSPC restop (I've modded my pump so that it runs at 18w), EK GTX280 full cover block, Watercool Heatkiller 3 CU CPU block, 3/8" ID 5/8" OD Bitspower compression fittings, and also some Bitspower rotary 45's and L fittings.

I'm also moving my hardware out of my current TJ10 and into my new TJ07 as well..

Here are some pics of my parts I will be using.



My new case.



Bitspower fittings



My murdermod style braided PSU cables!



Here are some pics of my progress so far.

Some holes that I cut in my mobo tray for cable management, the large one was done at the factory, it is for dual CPU systems so that you can get access to the heatsink backplates without removing the mobo, only the latest TJ07's have this hole, I was actually quite dissapointed when I received my case to find that it had this hole cut already, as I wanted to cut out my own hole for backplate access.



The TJ07 comes with 2 HDD cages that are mounted in the basement section of the case, however, I had to remove these as this is where I am going to be installing my 2 rads, so there wasn't room for the cages anymore, so what I have done is taken one of the cages and mounted it up in the 5.25" bays as shown in this next picture.



This mod is only temporary until I get the funds to buy one of these instead.



I fitted the block onto my graphics card last night as well, I was really nervous about doing this as I have never fitted a waterblock in my life, but it was a lot easier than I thought it would be!!

Naked GTX280!!



RAM and GPU with MX3 applied, and the VRM area with 0.5mm thermal pads fitted.



And voila, one block and backplate fitted!!! :D




And the last update for today, is my rad fans, I got them all daisy chained together last night as well, again, this is the first time I have ever done anything like this, so I was panicing when I did it incase I screwed things up, but it went really smoothly, and everything works perfectly!!!



I really like these fans, they are nice and quiet, and they shift a lot of air, I had been using 2 of them for my TRUE, and they kept my 920 o/ced to 4GHz at 37c idle and 76c under full load with LinX, I am thinking about fitting out my entire case with these, but I'm not sure yet, as it might be a little to much having LED fans everywhere.

Anyway thats it for the moment, I will post more pics when I get more work done!!!

TJ07 is a really big case, lovely choice mate.
 
I really like your setup. I was wondering, witch kind of fluid are you going to use?
I recommend feser one, it holds about 6 months without algae. I had really bad experiences with shiftek cooling fluid.

Remember to test for leaks!

I am using DI water with a silver kill coil mate, I've done lots of research, and I feel it is the best method for me, I don't want any bright colors as I am using white tubing, so I dont see the point in using a colored coolant.

Loads of guys on XS, OcUK, and Chilled PC forums have told me that DI water with silver coil is good enough for anyone..

I've seen some really nasty cases of people using Feser one and it going all screwed up with them, leaving this really horrible gunk in all their blocks and tubing, so after seeing that I decided not to use any specialist coolants!!!

Just take a look at this thread on XS to see what I am talking about..

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=226632

There are loads  of other folk that have had the same issues as this as well, and this is something that I would like to avoid to be honest!!

I will definitely run the WC system overnight to make sure I have no leaks before I power my system up, the last thing I would want happening is my mobo going up in a puff of smoke because of a leaky loop!! :D

::edit::

The TJ07 is a nice case, especially for water cooling, I had originally intended on using my TJ10 for my WC, but it was really difficult to plan out a loop in that case, and it would have needed loads of mods done to it to fit everything I wanted in my loop, so I decided to just go out and get the TJ07 as there are loads of guys using this case for watercooling, and it looks really good to!!

I will be ripping my rig apart again at the beginning of next year to get the interior powder coated in red, it should look even better once I get that done! :D

Regarding the case, You are doing a good job there xd. It takes lots of time but it feels good. when you are done, send your pics to guru3d case of the month, you might win a price.

yes I have seen the topic long time ago, I´m going to read the rest of it.
I used distilled water + shiftec solution and i had so much gunk and small plants. That´s why I changed to feser one, but it does leaves some gunk too, not as much as i had before.

BTW I use different metals so would get corrosion if i don´t use anti corrosion fluids

Yeah, corrosion inhibitors like G11, or G12 is what you need to add into your loop if you are using mixed metals..

If you just use distilled or de-ionised water with a silver kill coil in your res or some Petra's Tech PT Nuke and you won't have a problem with algae.

I just replaced the fluid to weeks ago, so I´m going to wait a few months. I still have like 3 bottles of feser one black.

Feser one doesn´t like hight temperatures over 60c and my  idle is about 50/c so hmmmmm!!!

Yhea man, you're doing a good job. I'm also a fan of big big cases, but I'm not so freak to build up my liquidcoling project. Iwould like to do it, but not with the components I have now on my computer...need money!

Peace and love man, and bes wishes for you TJ07.

PS: You migh think about installing a little filter after the pump section, then you won't have problems, just cleaning the filter once a month!

Thanks mirdetost, I never actually thought about adding a filter into my loop, I guess it would be a good idea though, but wouldn't it be better to have it placed before the pump?

I thought the purpose of a filter was to prevent any crap from entering the pumps impeller?

Something else I have been thinking about doing is adding a fill and drainports, but I really don't like the thought of drilling a 1" hole through the top and bottom of my new case, just incase I screwed it up!!!

@xeon, do you have to top up your loop, and if so, how often do you do it?

I do it every 5 or 6 months, to clean the gunk and it´s easy because i have it outside the box then I can move it up and down to remove the liquid.

Here is an old pic

http://s225.photobucket.com/albums/dd167/psyxeon/HARWARE%20-%20OVERCLOKING/?action=view&current=i7wcremake8Copy.jpg


You should make an easy fill/bleed system something like a T-line will do, otherwise you have to take the components out.

I thought the purpose of a filter was to prevent any crap from entering the pumps impeller?

Oh yep, that was wht I was tryng to say :)

I was looking at some filters but normally they are used to reduce bubbles on strong pumps

Xeon, I thought you might be interested in checking this out man.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=238302

A full cover block for your DFI mobo, it looks amazing!!

Duniek makes some of the nicest blocks around imo..

My Silverstone CFP51B should hopefully be arriving with me tomorrow, so I will be able to start my build tomorrow night!

I decided to test out my GTX280 with the waterblock fitted in my current rig this evening, as I was starting to get worried incase I got problems like some of the guys on XS did with this block, but everything is perfect!

My load temps whilst playing GTA4 and Crysis Warhead sit around 36c on the core, and with Furmark maximum stress it peaks out at 53c, so I am delighted with that, especially when it used to sit at around 70c when gaming with the stock cooler!!!

I can't wait to get my Heatkiller 3 fitted, I hope it gives me some nice temps to..

My d-tek  fuzzion v2 I7 mount is from Duniek, since i had my i7 before dtek released the pro mount i had to order a custom one from Poland.

The block from Duniek looks cool, but most of the dudes that dissembled the dfi and added a water block ended with a dead motherboard.

The dfi heatsink must have pressure over all the pwn area or the mobo it will die in the first run.

Hwo knows if his kit works, I´m sure his mobo is already dead.

I've heard from several people that have used this board, that the PWM area is supposed to be really dodgy, there are quite a few cases of guys that have had their boards burn up on them, without any overclocking at all.

There was a thread on XS about it, and the guy was having a really hard time with the RMA process, because DFI said that they dont cover this type of thing under warranty.

A lot of guys were saying that this was actually a defect with a batch of these mobos, but DFI weren't willing to accept responsibility for it, and were blaming the owners, even though most of the boards died when everything was left on stock frequencies/voltages!!

I really like the look of this mobo, and I was actually trying to get a hold of one, but after I read that thread on XS, I decided to stay well away from it, and stick with my UD5's instead.

[on-topic]

I've received my Silverstone CFP51B this morning, so I should have some updates on my rig later tonight hopefully.

My first dfi mobo died after a week, then I had to wait a month for the RMA process. I read most of the topics too, lots of people killer theyr motherboards, that´s why you can´t find any full cover for the DFI X58 UT T3E-H8.

Yes take some pics XD

Sorry for the lack of updates folks, but I was just far to busy getting everything done to find the time to get online and post updates on my worklogs ( I have a worklog on ChilledPC.co.uk as well)

Anyway, it's pretty much finished, well, when I say finished, I mean it is up and running, and everything is running perfectly as well.

I still have lots of things that I will be doing to this rig, so it will never be "finished" so to speak, as in the New Year I will be ripping it all apart again to send the internals off to the guys at Chilled PC to have them powder coated in red, I will also be buying a Thermochill 120.4 and 120.2 rads, and I will be buying the EK Acetal NB/SB and MOSFET blocks for my Gigabyte EX58 UD5 mobo as well.

Well, enough chit chat, here are some pics to show you guys what I have been busy doing!!

Firstly, I did a little mod on the PCB for the front panel Power and Reset switches.

I got a hold of a hammond box from a local electrical store.



Then I screwed the PCB into position with some mobo stand-offs.



And then screwed the hammond box into the mobo stand-offs to cover the PCB.



My Scythe Kaze Mater Ace fan controller cables that I sleeved.



Now, my camera ended up running out of batteries when I started fitting my rad and res etc etc, so I just cracked on with the build instead of taking pics of every step!!

Here is a pic of my rig after I plumbed everything in.



Check out the mess of cables behind my mobo tray!!! :O



Some pics with the side panels on.







Here is a close up shot of my EK GTX280 full cover block, and some lovely looking Bitspower fittings!!



I really love this CPU block!!



Anyway, that's pretty much it for now, needless to say, I am absolutely delighted with this system, my temps are amazing compared to what they were like with my TRUE with 2 fans fitted.

With my chip at 4GHz with 1.248v Vcore and 1.215v Vtt using my TRUE with 2 fans my load temps used to hit 78c when running LinX with all available memory, but now that I have my chip under water with the Heatkiller 3 and a triple rad my load temps when running LinX don't exceed 60c!!!

My GPU temps have also dropped quite dramatically as well, so I am really happy about that.

To anyone who is toying with the idea of moving over to watercooling, don't hesitate, this is probably one of the best moves I have ever made in the 10 years I have been building my own PC's, I spent years thinking about moving over to watercooling, but the thought of mixing water with expensive PC components always scared me, but if you educate yourself first, by reading up as much information as possible, and then take your time when it comes to fitting all the components into your system, and also do a proper leak test, then you really can't go wrong, and even if you do run into issues along the journey, these issues are easily resolved.

Anyway, thats about it for now guys, however, like I already said, this build will never be "finished", as I am always changing things inside my rig, and I have got plenty of things that I want to change with this system already!!

Thanks for checking out my worklog folks ;)

That is one big case man, the mobo looks like a mATX compared to the case. Sexy cable sleeving and water loop for CPU and GPU.
You have invested a lot of work and time in this, not to mention money. I bet you PC is dead silent now.
Can you do an estimate on the cost of you wc components(pump, rad etc. all)

Thanks recon, as for costs, I lost count how much money I pumped into my system!

I did try to keep a check on how much I had spent, but I've been buying parts for 2 systems since the start of this year, as I also built my partner an i7 rig as well.

Most of the WC stuff I have was bought second hand from the OcUK Members Market, so I did save quite a bit of money there, I also got my partners Gigabyte EX58 UD5 from the MM as well, I got a really good deal on that, I paid £140 for it, and it was brand new still in a sealed box.

The only thing in my WC loop that was bought brand new was my Heatkiller 3, and 1 of the fans that is fitted to my rad, everything else is 2nd hand.

I did price up all the WC components I wanted before I started buying everything, and it was close to £400 which included all the Bitspower fittings (they are really expensive to buy new!), but I thought that was an awful lot of money to spend on a cooling system, so I decided to start looking for guys selling off their old stuff instead so I could try and save some money.

The only problem that I ran into with buying 2nd hand WC parts, was that I ended up buying to much bits, and now I have almost got enough left over components to watercool another system!

I just need to get another CPU block, and then I will setup a small loop in my partners system to cool her CPU.

Regarding my case, I personally don't think it's that big tbh, my last case is slightly larger than this one actually, I had intended on using my old case for my watercooling project, but I was struggling to plan out my loop layout in the TJ10, and then I started seeing loads of people using the TJ07 for watercooling projects, and I instantly fell in love with this case, it's almost as though it was made for watercooling, so I decided to get one of those instead and give the TJ10 to my partner!

As for my PC being silent, it really just depends on how high I have my fans spinning, if I keep the rad fans spinning at 1000rpm it's really quiet, but if I turn them up to 1500rpm it becomes audible, but it's still not loud.

TBH though, I didn't build this rig for quietness, I wanted to have somthing that was superior to the high end air cooling I had been used to before, and I have got exactly what I wanted, so I am absolutely delighted with it!!

But in saying that, there is still plenty of things I want to change already, and it's only been up and running for 2 days!

Here is a list of things I still have to do:

Fit my temp probes onto my fan controller
Buy and fit the EK Gigabyte UD5 IOH/ICH and MOSFET blocks
Change my XSPC restop to my new XSPC acrylic top and fit an EK 250 multioption res
change my rad to a Thermochill PA120.4 and 120.2
Rip everything apart and have the case internals powder coated in red!
And lastly, Bitspower have released some really sexy looking matte black fittings, and I want to change my current fittings for these!!

Here is a pic of the lovely fittings I am referring to:



So, as you can see, this project is a long way from being finished, I will start changing things again in the new year.

On man the setup in the pic looks really sexy. Reminds me of murderbox.

Check out the guys Worklog for that build.

http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=9893

It is truely spectacular, and puts my system to shame.. :(

I also have my worklog in that forum as well.

If you do check out that link above, you should also have a look at some of the other members projects as well.

Also, here is a link to a TJ07 that mine will look similar to once I get the internals powder coated, although, I won't have as much red as this one, as I will get some parts of the internals done in black as well, but it will be similar though.

http://chilledpc.co.uk/tom/My%20Albums/TJ07%20Red%20Internal%20-%20Triple%20Roof%20Mod/album/

Lol that dude is going xtream with those 12 gb and tri-sli

His rig looks amazing though, the airbrushed Hitman designs on his side panels look awesome.

And that Feser Monsta rad is insane to!!

I'm a little bit dissapointed that Bitspower didn't have those matte black compressions, and rotary fittings available when I was buying my parts, as they look much nicer than the Silver Shining fittings that I have.. :(

If you ask me! = Performance is better than looks

Performance is more important yes, but I also like my system to look good!!

The matte black fittings are the same as what I am using, so the performance wouldn't be any different man, it would just fit the theme of my rig better, that's all!!!

I class myself as I PC enthusiast, I enjoy building PC's, and I like to make then appealing to the eye...

So long looks don´t compromise performance is also fine.

I would never change something in my system if it were going to hurt performance, that would be really foolish imo!!

I have to say, I am extremely impressed with this watercooling setup so far, I wasn't expecting my temps to be as low as they are, when running LinX at 4GHz using all available RAM, the loads haven't went above 62c, when I was on air with my TRUE in a push/pull config my loads with LinX would hit like 77c!

That´s a good chip you got there! Before you go on and buy faster memory google your batch and check if others are able to run 2000mhz memory on that batch

My batch is a very recent one, and there doesn't appear to be that much info on them atm.

Like I said though, I'm not buying the faster RAM just so that I can run it at its rated speed, I just want more headroom for pushing beyond 200 Bclk, I have to start underclocking my current 1600MHz DIMM's, and tbh, it doesn't seem worth overclocking past 200 Bclk if I have to run my RAM below 1600MHz, as the performance hit just isn't worth it, whereas if I had 1866 or 2000MHz DIMM's, they would be running faster than 1600MHz when I start clocking up to 210+ Bclk.

The highest I have had this chip was up to 227 Bclk, however that was only SuperPI stable, which as you know, isn't stable at all!!! :D

227 Bclk is just sexy I have never been there with my chip. It can´t

I pushed it to 210 and my ram was running a 2100 cl9 that´s it

It's probably your RAM that is stopping you going higher mate, 2100MHz is nuts!!

Have you tried using a lower RAM multi when pushing high Bclk?

I just went and took some photos of my BIOS screens for you of my 4GHz settings, I am away to upload them just now, then I will post them here.

I will also tell you what I change for my 4.2GHz profile as well.

Here you go xeon.















For my 4.2GHz profile, all I change is, I raise Vtt to 1.275v, and Vcore to 1.300v, then I enable Turbo Boost Tech for the 21x multi.

You will notice in the Advanced RAM Timings screen, I have got a B2B CAS Delay option, which I set to 6 instead of auto, this gives me much better latencies, but not all X58 mobos have this option, it was only added to the UD5 with the F9e BIOS update.

And in the Advanced Clock Control screen, you will also see that I set CPU Clock Skew to 100ps, when I first started tweaking for 4.2GHz I was having to use 1.355v Vtt, but someone on XS suggested that I played around with the clock skews, so I set it to 100ps, and I managed to get my Vcore and Vtt down quite considerably.

It was the same with my 4GHz profile, I used to need 1.275v Vtt for 4GHz, but after setting CPU clock skew to 100ps, it enabled me to lower Vtt down to 1.215v.

A lot of people dont play around with this setting, but it really did help me get a stable o/c with less voltages that I was previously using.

With my 4GHz o/c in the BIOS my Vcore is set to 1.275v, but in CPUZ it shows as 1.248v, same with my 4.2GHz profile, it is set to 1.300v in the BIOS, but CPUZ shows 1.264v.

As you will know these settings probably wont work for you, as each chip has different requirements.

I really like the my chip I have atm, infact, both the chip I am using, and my partners chip are really decent clockers.

::edit::

Forgot to say as well, with CPU PLL I lower it from the stock 1.800v to 1.300v, this also helped stabilize my O/C, this was suggested to me from a guy on the evga forums, and it definitely helped my overclock quite considerably.

However, I know on some mobo's this voltage can't be set lower than 1.800v for some reason, I dont know if the DFI is one of these boards, but all Asus X58 boards don't allow this setting to be any lower than 1.8v, they can be raised, but not lowered.

I did try  lowering the ram speed max blk for me is 215/17 because i don´t want to give it more vcore.

I want to run ram at least at 2000mhz since my ram doesnt like cl 7, they are made for frequency at cl9. 20 x 200 = 4 ghz or turbo on 21 x 200 = 4.2 ghz

I forgot to say that 2000mhz needs 4000 uncore that brings inestability

THX for posting the pics

CPU Clock Skew must be an option of GA need to do some research it could be useful for me

I did noticed you reduced the CPU PLL hmm  I followed the gide from eva200 and i have the same components as he does DFi mobo, i7920 same batch, whent trough many tests and my cpu is like his. Hight voltage and low temperature. So most of my settings are from his research.

My pc was stable for many months an now does weird things like BSO`S once a week since i upgraded to win 7 "It is weird"


Quote from eva2000

Type 1 - core i7 cpus that need high to very high cpu vtt to overclock for memory and bclk.

Type 2 - core i7 cpus that like low-medium low cpu vtt to overclock for memory and bclk and scale with cpu vtt and memory voltage

Type 3 - core i7 cpus that only like low-medium low cpu vtt to overclock for memory and bclk BUT DO NOT scale for either cpu vtt and memory voltage or both

Type 4 - core i7 cpus that like cpu vtt close to vcore so you may find the cpu needs high vcore for lower clocks due to cpu vtt requirement for those clocks.

Eva has done quite a lot of research on i7/X58 platform, but you must remember xeon, even though you have the same mobo, and the same batch as him, there can still be quite a considerable difference between both of your systems.

I have 2 UD5's , and 2 chips with identical batch numbers (both chips have the EXACT same batch number 3921A624) and both of my rigs have different voltage requirements for 4GHz.

Your BSOD's is more than likely a software issue, and probably aren't hardware related at all mate.

That's what it sounds like to me anyway, especially if your rig was stable for months, and the BSOD's have only started happening since you moved to Win7.

I've been on Win7 for a couple of months now, I'm using RC 7100, and I have had zero issues so far (touches wood!!!).

As for the Clock Skew settings, I thought most mobo manufacturers had this setting in their BIOS??

Doesn't it go by a different name on DFI boards?

Lowering CPU PLL definitely helped a lot with my system stability, I've also learned that having some voltages set to high can cause major stability issues as well.

When I first started pushing for 4.2GHz, I had my Vtt set right up to 1.375v, and Vcore was at 1.335v, and it would BSOD after the 2nd pass of LinX, but someone suggested that I should try lowering my voltages, so I took their advice, and I managed to get it stable with a lot less voltages that I had been using previously.

My chip only needs 1.300v Vcore and 1.275v Vtt for 4.2GHz.

Like I said before as well, it's all about finding the correct balance between Vcore, Vtt and VDimm, this is pretty much what eva is saying in that quote you posted above.

Out of all the chips I have tested, the different requirements for each one was crazy!!

As for the 4GHz Uncore you mentioned above, this is all specific to each chip, there are plenty of guys pushing higher than 4GHz uncore on XS, same for high RAM frequencies, it's all about whether your chip has got a strong IMC or not.

I've seen lots of people on OcUK forum unable to get their i920's to run their 1600MHz RAM at its rated speed, and they are forced to run it at 1333MHz instead, this is simply down to the fact that anything faster than 1066MHz on these chips is classed as overclocking, because the IMC only officially supports 1066MHz DDR3.

It's just the luck of the draw tbh.

It could very well be the reason you are unable to get any higher than 215 Bclk is because that is the Bclk wall of your chip or mobo, the Gigabyte UD5 is known to have a 222 Bclk wall, the only way that I managed to break that on my system was because I used SetFSB to go beyond 222MHz.

When using the BIOS on the UD5, the mobo simply refuses to POST if you try and go higher than 222 Bclk, however there is a PCIE hardmod that you can do to the UD5 which allows you to hit 240+ Bclk, but it involves removing a tiny resistor from one point on the mobo, and re-soldering it back onto another part of the board, I have the instructions here for the mod, but I would NEVER attempt to solder something as small as these resistors!!

Here is a pic of the mod for my board, the size of the pic is the actual size of the resistors, they are located right beside the IOH.



Anyway mate, I hope that you get to the bottom of the problems you are having with your system, as I know how frustrating it can be when things aren't working properly!!

I glad i changed to dfi i used to be a gigabyte fan but i got tired of doing vdroop mods to be be able to achieve some good overclocking at low voltage.

That was my last ga mod on a p35, mods can be done with loctite + and that won´t void you warranty since it can be removed easily

Code: [Select]

http://www.thepsyfamily.net/forum/index.php?topic=4351.msg35296#msg35296
Well if i reduce voltages my computer is not able to pass hyperpi. I raised voltage to 1.36875vcore set that is 1,36v in windows and I passed hyperpi 32 m 8 cores. Prime linx and all others only need 1.31vcore to pass
Is funny the cpu wants more voltage during winter time.

Regarding the bsod´s yes it could be win7 since i upgraded from vista to win7, I will do a clean install in the near future.

You have a lovely cpu there mate, normally these new batches are bad clockers.. 

There is very little Vdroop and Vdrop with the EX58 Gigabyte mobos once you enable Loadline Calibration..

Back when the first 45nm Core 2's were released, there were lots of guys saying that LLC was bad, and could cause permanent damage to your processor because of the spikes it causes in voltages, but this just isn't the case anymore.

That mod for the UD5 that I posted isn't to help with Vdroop, it just enables you to push past the 222 Bclk wall that the UD5's have.

It isn't just Gigabyte boards that have this Bclk wall neither, the Asus RIIE, and P6T boards all have it, as does the Biostar and Foxconn boards, however the new Gigabyte EX58A range of boards that will be getting released soon no longer have this limit on Bclk, which is great news for extreme overclockers.

Regarding your BSOD's, I'd definitely say it has something to do with you upgrading from Vista to Win7 instead of doing a clean install.

So far I am extremely impressed with Win7, I haven't had any issues whatsoever since I switched from Vista, I'm currently using build 7100, but I have the RTM version here, which I will be installing soon.

Thats the funny thing i upgraded from vista ultimate to win 7 rc, then to 7.100 and the upgraded again to rtm ultimate. But it works just fine. I just don´t have much time to spend on computer atm, I spend my time learning how to program.

In the dfi if i enable vdroop my voltage drops a lot and i have to give it much more to be stable. Eva2000 sayd I should leave vdroop control on so it is on, but it wants like + 0.020vcore for the same speed.

Higher blk gives more room to tweak ram, eva2000 overclocked  his dominators to 2300mhz and i have seen a guys that pushed them to 2500mhz thats what i call a strong memory controller.

I pushed my blades to 2100/ 2170 cl9 with 1.65v dimm and  1.44 vtt

Here is a pic right now

Hey Xeon, I just found one of my CPUZ validations at 4.7GHz, I can't find my one I validated at 227Bclk, but it wasn't that much more of an overclock than this one.



http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=702978

Waiting for 5GHz... BTW is HT on?

Can tpu reduce your uncore, that might give you stability.

Lovely overclock XD

@recon, yup HT is on, if you look at the bottom right hand side of that CPUZ screenie, you will see it says "4 cores 8 threads"..

At Xeon, that is the lowest setting for uncore unfortunately.

I never actually tested that o/c for proper stability, as I was only on air when I did that, and the temps would have been to high for stress testing, I only did some SuperPI 1m runs, and CPUZ validations.

Now that I am on water, I will try benching properly with that o/c, I'm kinda hoping to get around 4.3 to 4.5GHz stable now that I have the chip under water, I reckon that is doable with this chip tbh, epecially when my load temps at 4.2GHz dont exceed 62c when running LinX with all available RAM.

Facepalm I missed that. Impressive result.

Thanks mate.

I doubt very much that I will get 5GHz out of this current setup because of the Bclk wall that the Gigabyte UD5 has, there is a hardmod that can be done to address this issue, but I'm not going to bother doing it, because the resistor that you have to move on the mobo is extremely small, and I suck at soldering!!

Xd that´s your qpi stopping the overclock, are you giving any voltages to IOH and IOH ANANALOG?

4.5ghz is hard to get it stable, higer block needsmore qpi vtt + Nb voltage

I have those to default, since i´m not pushing the block more that 21x200 = 4200mhz but my uncore is hight so it wants vtt juice.

1.44vtt bios
1.42vtt windows load
1.40vtt windows idle

That's a lot of Vtt..

I only need 1.215v for 4GHz, and 1.255v for 4.2GHz..

Also, I doubt very much that it is QPI that is causing issues for me when trying for high Bclk, the reason I know this, is because I have tested using QPI slow-mode which runs QPI at stupidly low frequencies, I did this to rule it out of the equation..

I've still yet to try and push for higher clocks since putting my chip under water, I just haven't had a proper chance to do so yet, I've been in bed for the last 4 days with the flu, I've been feeling like crap!!

Starting to feel better now thankfully, was beginning to think I had swine flu!! :D

I'm gonna be pulling both of my 36GB raptors out of my system tomorrow hopefully, so I can put in 2 x 160GB SATAII drives in RAID0 instead, because I think the Raptors are starting to fail, as they have become extremely noisy recently, they weren't silent drives anyway, but they are starting to get louder now, and they're really starting to annoy me now!!!

I want to get a pair of Samsung 64GB SSD's for RAID0, but I don't have that kinda money atm, so I will have to continue using spindle drives for the time being..

I reckon the 2 SATAII 160GB drives I have here should be just as good, if not better than the 2 old crappy Raptors that I'm using just now, tbh, I didn't really see any benefits moving from a single SATAII drive for my OS to using 2 Raptors in RAID0, I think it has something to do with the Raptors only being SATAI drives that I didn't experience any performance increase..

If anything, the 160GB drives run a lot quieter than these Raptors do!!!

I prefer to have more space that load speed, I have 2 x WD green 7200rpm on raid 0, they are not as fast as sd cards but i can have lots of stuff.

I need so much vtt because i run ram at 2000 mhz and that´s hard on the uncore

I keep forgetting your running 2GHz DIMM's..

I'm 100% sure that the reason my first i920 got damaged was because I had used to much Vtt.

When I was having issues finding a stable overclock when I first built my system, I started posting on the corsair support forums to see if anyone could assist me there, one of the guys there (theramguy) suggested that I tried using higher Vtt than I was using, he suggested trying anything in between 1.4 to 1.7v Vtt.

So I tried out what he suggested, and I went right up to 1.65v Vtt to see if I could get my system stable, but it still kept BSOD'ing and freezing whenever I put a load on the processor, anyway, a couple of days after I tried his suggestions, my system started only recognizing 4GB out of the 6GB I had installed..

No matter what I tried it would only see 4GB of RAM, even at stock, I even tried underclocking the chip and RAM to see if it would POST with the full 6GB, but nothing worked.

I know that some high speed DDR3 with XMP profiles programmed into them, can have Vtt set right up to 1.7v, I'm sure it's the Kingston HyperX stuff, and also the Corsair Dominator GT's that set the Vtt to 1.7v when you enable XMP, but they don't really need it to be this high, as we can see with you running your OCZ's with 1.44v Vtt.

I am fairly confident that it had something to do with Vtt that killed the IMC on my first chip though, when I got the replacement chip sent out to me, as soon as I installed it, my system recognized all 6GB again.

Normally the system not detecting the 6gb is because it wants more vdim and vtt but if you gave it so much it must be an incompatibility with the elpida chips.

1.65v Vtt is really high xd, I have only seen a few dudes giving so much vtt to get between 2000/2400 mhz at cl7


My rig just crashed while browsing, terrible, i must reinstall win7 to isolate the issue , what a pain!


Hyperpi stable.

My Dominators don't use Elpida IC's, the Dominator 3.1's use Micron D9GTR IC's..

The issue was definitely with my old chips IMC, because as soon as I got the chip replaced, my system recognised all 6GB again.

However, I can actually replicate this issue with my current chip by tightening up my RAM timings, if I set my RAM to 7-8-7-20-1t my system only POST's with 4GB, but as soon as I put timings back to stock, all 6GB is recognized again..

But this wasn't the case with my first processor, I am fairly positive it was due to high Vtt that damaged the IMC on the chip.

I really want some low latency DIMM's for my rig, I want something that can do 1600MHz at CAS6, I'm thinking about getting the 1866MHz CAS7 Dominator GT's, I reckon those should manage to do 1600MHz @ CAS6..

I don´t know xd eva2000 and a few dudes have the dominators gt or ocz blades cl 7  editions and the run 1600 7.8.7.7.20 but that requires hight in som cpus, not all. You might be the lucky one.

My cpu responds exactly as eva2000 i7 920 twins batch 3851A. Mine needs more voltage than his but it is just .0030vcore  to achieve the same cpu and ram speeds.

Well, I have been playing around with my chip tonight, and I have just managed to get it LinX stable for 20 passes using all available RAM with the chip running at 4.4GHz...

Here's a couple pics.

Load temps didn't go above 75c, I'm really happy with that!!



And a pic of the test completed.



I am now going to see if I can put my RAM back onto the 8x multiplier so it runs at 1680MHz, however, with it at 1260MHz CAS6, this is still very good.

Also, I think I could probably get 4.5GHz with the same Vcore I am using atm.